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Wednesday, September 5, 2007

What Influences And Sells You

It has been said that we are a product of the five people that we hang out with the most. Who are these heroes? Taken one step further, this means that we each are a product of those influences that have the greatest and most consistent access to us.

In our current world, those influencers that sell us include people both living and dead, music, TV, movies, internet, books, magazines, school, parents, talk-radio, the news and every other form of media communications. We now live in the new media marketplace where the rules have changed. Regarding the above statement, I believe the word product was chosen carefully instead of the word sum because all of these influencers tend to converge in constantly changing, unlimited permutations. The manner in which we are impacted is far greater than a simple summary of each influencer.

Today, the relevance and potential impact of these influencers is far greater than at any other time in history. The internet is the key. The world is at our doorstep and every segment of it is vying for our attention. A wide body of information, until just recently, was relatively inaccessible. Now, this same information is at our fingertips. The experiences and opinions of other people, even in distant lands, are instantly available. Research material, white papers, statistics, facts and figures and general information relating to even the smallest detail are all available from web sites, blogs, RSS feeds and other media outlets. Audio and video have been transformed as people are now moving from the fixed location of their living rooms to anywhere their mobility affords, enjoying content of all types via the web on a wide range of devices. Today, it is easy to be influenced by virtually limitless sources, all competing for our attention.

Accordingly, our self-talk and subconscious minds are constantly being bombarded by influencers, competing for that steering wheel directing our path. That fact is not necessarily negative. Combined with purposefully-chosen, written goals, these influencers offer a tremendous aid in realizing rapid achievement of our goals, consistently providing course corrections on our chosen direction and destination. In the absence of clear, well-defined and written goals however, these same influencers can combine to create a state of chaos. It may even become dangerous. If we do not choose our path, someone or something else certainly will. We must learn the value of self-determination.

Who are we? What makes us? What drives us? Our values and beliefs shape us at our very core. As a result, we will act in accordance with our internal compass. To do otherwise, to violate our conscience, will certainly cause great stress and distress in our life. These same values and beliefs will help us to focus on those influencers that will direct and guide us on our life journey, while rejecting those influencers that are contrary or hostile to us. We also have the gift of choice which affords us the ability to say no to certain influencers that we know are not congruent with our values. Fortunately, much of this decision -making occurs at a subconscious level, quietly driving us in the direction of our chosen destination and goals.

We can aid this process considerably by proactively deciding upon what we will allow to influence us. We can place ourselves in the path of the influencers that we choose, ignoring those we deem undesirable. Long ago, I made a conscious decision to avoid people with negative attitudes, to fill my head with positive, uplifting and motivating self-talk and to associate with people that are like-minded. That decision, which pushed me in a desirable direction, encouraging and fostering positive growth, has led me to my later choices of friends, work, books, TV, movies, magazines, etc... and has overall impacted me in a positive manner. My choices produce and become my consequences.

Though we cannot avoid the relentless bombardment of our senses, we can dynamically filter and choose those influences which will allow us to reach our maximum potential while rejecting the remainder. It is our choice to determine the five people that we hang out with the most.

How will you spend your time? Who and what is spending it with you? What is happening to you in the process?

Daniel Sitter, author of both the popular personal development book, Learning For Profit, and the highly anticipated business book, Superior Selling Skills Mastery, has garnered extensive experience in sales, training, marketing and personal development over a successful twenty-five year career. http://www.learningforprofit.com/ Read his blog http://ideaseller.typepad.com/

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Buying a Horse - Hints and Tips from 1751

Having recently been lent an original copy of the Treatise on the Diseases of Horses written by William Gibson, Surgeon, in 1751, it has been interesting to compare horse lore then to now. This article looks at one of the early chapters.

Written in the old English manner with fs instead of s, it does not make easy reading, but it is fascinating, not least in the fact that little seems to have changed in the last 300 years of our relationship with horses. The chapter on Such Faults and Defect as ought chiefly to be avoided in buying of Horses does not read very differently to the advice to be found in any horse magazine or book today! Some pictures from the book are reproduced at http://www.limebrook.com/1751horselore.html

The author opens with the statement I believe most of those who have had any great dealing in horses will readily agree to this, that few things in common life are more difficult than the buying of a horse well, and I have know many who have boasted of their skill and dexterity that way, and made greater pretence than others in the knowledge of horses, very much deceived. Ah, well, yes still very true today, though more poetically put perhaps.

Gibson says that long experience and good taste regulated with some judgement is necessary when buying a horse, otherwise a man is like to make but an indifferent choice.

Of course, 300 years ago buying a horse must have been more like buying a second hand car today. A horse was a necessity if you wanted to get around, plough your farm or carry your goods. It was not the luxury it is nowadays, and a hobby, but the only mode of transport and a way of life. Today many mistakes are made when purchasing horses, but imagine how much worse it would have been when your livelihood depended on it!

Gibson says that there is so much advice that could be given that it would fill up a whole volume, and indeed points his readers to other books that were available at the time that of the Duke of Newcastle for example! To show nothing much changes, today, this type of advice is found in nearly every edition of every horse magazine sold.

Nowadays we advise new owners to try and take a horse for a trial period Gibson also recommends this, noting that several defects in a horse are of such a nature, that they cannot be easily discovered till a person has had him a short time in his own keeping. Visible defects, which should automatically be avoided, include specks on his eyes, if he startles or flies off at the sight of common objects, if his feet are so plainly bad as to make him go crippling along, if he heaves at his flanks and coughs: these and many more of suchlike are defects that cannot be hid even from those who perhaps know but little of the horse.

Unfortunately, this is the one chapter in the book where some pages are missing; however it is interesting to see the order in which Gibson refers to the main points which should be inspected. The first few pages are devoted to examining the eyes, which we dont talk much about today. This is followed by a discussion about the foot, before he moves onto look more at the form, starting with the shoulder. Unfortunately it is at this point the pages are missing, and from this particular volume we can gain no more advice from 1751.

Much weight is given to the eyes, which can apparently fool even experienced people. Horses apparently should have transparency of the eyes, but because of the way they are growing, up until the age of six their eyes can appear better than they really are. It is important therefore to look at the form and manner of the eye, which includes not only the body of the eye, but the eyelids and eyebrows. Apparently many good eyd horses have a heaviness in their countenance with a lowering brow, yet great numbers of this aspect go blind with cataracts when they are about seven years old.

A tip for examining horses eyes is given Most people in examining a horses eyes lead him under a gateway or some shade that they may see perfectly the colour and transparency of the eyes, but the best way is to observe his countenance when he comes first out of a dark stable into a strong light; for if he has any weakness in his eyes he will wrinkle his brow, and look upwards to receive more light. If the pupil lessons upon his coming out into a strong light it is almost an infallible sign that the eye is good. Gibson also mentions the link between poor eyes and spooking, or startling as it was put 300 years ago, although he dismisses what some suspect that all horses that startle to have bad eyes for many horses startle merely out of fear. Although he does imagine not a few [startle] from some defect in vision. All horses may at some time see something indistinctly which causes them to spook, but a horse which spooks frequently when nothing is in front of him might be doing so because of something wrong with his eyes!

Judging a horse from his feet is apparently easier than judging the state of his eyes, but is considered of great importance, as bad feet in a horse is like a horse that has a weak foundation. He describes the problems which make them more prone than others to lameness or at least makes them unfit for the most common uses, as hunting and travelling.

It is not enough, according to Gibson, simply to judge the condition of the horses feet just by seeing them walking as there are other things to be considered, without which a good horseman may be deceived.

A thin foot, where the crust or horn is thin can be easily seen when the shoe is removed, but Gibson recognises this trial will seldom be allowed in buying of a horse, but can be seen by examining where the shoe nails are clenched and riveted. Even strong feet can cause problems if they have been neglected on a long journey, by too much hard riding, especially on dry stony grounds, or when they stand long in a hot dry stable as they can go lame and tender, although will have no visible defect. A very hard strong foot is the greatest inconveniency as is subject to rifts and fissures.

Narrow heels are another defect described, although some horses feet are tolerably good even where the heels are narrow. Both forefeet too, should be looked at to ensure that they are of equal size, although he says that this can occur from the horse using one leg more than the other as it happens to working men who use the right hand and arm more than the left. A very high heel is another extreme which greatly lessons the value of a horse and is a cause of unsteadiness in a horses going and exposes him often to trip and stumble. A large foot which is disproportioned to his other parts is also to be avoided, and may have damage which not only denotes weakness, but heaviness and inaptitude to any brisk and vigorous action, and therefore unfit for the coach or saddle.

Gibson does not agree that white feet are generally worse that any other colour, stating I have seen white footed horses have their feet such as the ablest judges could not find fault with. He continues; when a foot is smooth and tough, of a middle size without wrinkles, neither too hard and brittle nor too soft, and when the heel is firm, open and no ways spongy or rotten, and the frog horny and dry, and the sole somewhat hollow like the inside of a dish or bowl, whatever be the colour, such a foot will for the most part turn out good. Though he does note that a dark or black hoof where it resembles that of a deer is generally the best, and that this is the reason people will avoid buying a horse with too many white feet!

Moving to the shoulders, both too heavy or narrow shouldered horses should be avoided. Heavy (by which he means flabby as opposed to muscular), as they cannot move well, and narrow as such horses are generally weak. Heavy shouldered horses can sever for a wagon or team, but are not fit for saddle or coach.

Although the next few pages of the chapter are missing, it was interesting to have been able to gain an insight into what buying a horse was like 300 years ago, and to see the similarities with today. An important purchase in those days, yet equally as difficult to judge a good horse then as now.

There are many tricks used today, as there probably were 300 years ago, to get the unsuspecting owner to part with their money. Horses can be drugged to appear more docile than they really are, might have been lunged to get rid of their excess energy before you ride, and of course, the seller will probably talk up their good points and avoid making mention of the bad!

Nowadays it is recommended that horses are always subject to a vets inspection prior to purchase. The vet will ask what you intend to do with the horse (use for pleasure, jumping, driving etc.), and will judge the horses fitness for that purpose, and provide you with a report on his health. The pitfalls that Gibson describes emphasises to the modern novice horse owner just how important the eye of an experienced person in animal husbandry really is!

Trish Haill is the Webmaster for Limebrook Farm Riding School and Livery Yard. This ever growing website is a great resource for riders and horse lovers everywhere. Other great knowledge and insights into the 1751 will also be on this website. Check out the site at http://www.limebrook.com/index.html

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Woah! You Are Having A Flat!

Have you ever driven the highway at night and heard a "hissing" noise and then felt the steering wheel *shake*?

Then the whole car started to tremble?

Guess what?

You probable just had a blow-out, or at least you were having a flat tire--that's what happens when all the air goes out of a tire.

Do you know how to change a tire?

It's different on most cars.

And then there's that little *toy* tire somewhere in the back that you have to put on to get to where you are going (if it's not too far).

It all depends on the type of vehicle you are driving.

If it's a pickup truck, you're in luck. At least your spare will be either in the back of the truck, or, underneath the bed near the rear bumper.

That could be good, or it could not be good. It all depends on where you are and which tire went flat, the front, or the rear.

Anyway, let's assume you can get to it on a pickup.

Usually, the manufacturer has it fastened up to the bottom of the bed with a cable that has a crank or twist mechanism.

If you are in a passenger car, or van, or station wagon you will find the spare tire in the back, or in the trunk (where you store your luggage when you go visit your in-laws).

On my wife's Ford Taurus station wagon the spare is located in the back, on the left, behind a panel...the *toy* tire.

But, in the very back there is a flap you can pull up and get to the *real* tire if you have one.

Usually the jack is stored with the spare but sometimes, like hers, the jack is under the flap in the floor bed and the spare is stored in the side panel.

This brings up another situation.

Does your vehicle have *locking* wheel lug nuts?

Hers has them, and if you don't have the key (a special lug nut looking thing with a funny-looking end on it, you can't get that locking nut off.

Okay, we have the spare, the lug wrench, the jack, the locking lug nut tool.

All we have to do now is break the lug nuts loose, while the vehicle is still flat on the ground (no pun intended).

Take the lug wrench and place it onto one of the lug nuts and turn it to the *left* (I don't think there are anymore left-handed nuts around, unless you own a Chrysler product from the '60's). :-)

After you break all the nuts loose (you did use the little tool to loosen the lock nut, didn't you?) you can put the jack under the car to jack it up so the tire will roll free.

Now you can remove all the nuts and then the tire so you can put the spare on.

Where are you going to put the jack?

That depends on the vehicle.

Newer vehicles have a *rib* in the body, just under the body. That is the best place to put the jack.

Now, if you have a pickup, or an older vehicle that doesn't have that rib, you need to put the jack under the rear axle (if it's a rear flat), or under the lower control arm (where the shock is bolted to) if you have a flat on the front.

Jack the vehicle up just enough to replace the tire. The higher you go the more risk you take of the vehicle sliding off the jack.

I could have left that part out, uh?

But seriously, you do want to be very careful...several accidents have happened from a vehicle jacked up too high.

Of course the newer type jacks are more stable...you do have the scissor type jack, yes?

Get all the nuts off, remove the flat tire, put the spare onto the lugs, start all the nuts, and then run them up snug (with the wrench).

Now you can let the jack down, and put it back in the vehicle.

Go back to your tire.

Start with one of the nuts and put some, not a lot, pressure on it (turning it to the right).

Next, go across from it and tighten the next one (you want to tighten them in a criss-cross fashion, top, bottom, left, right, etc.).

After you have all of them tightened slightly, go back over them in the same (or close) manner and tighten them pretty good.

You don't have to *stand* on the jack, most vehicles only torque around 80-100 pounds per square inch. That is not a lot.

But, you don't want to over-tighten them as most places do with the 1/2 inch impact wrench.

Put everything back in the car and you can go on your way feeling self-sufficient.

You did do a good job though! :-)

Tommy Sessions has been in auto repair since 1970. He publishes Auto Repair Answers Newsletter so you can learn how to keep your vehicle looking new, running safely and efficiently, while you save money and time...also, learn how to avoid shop rip offs. Don't be at the mercy of the dealerships and auto repair shops...they will have more respect for you.
http://www.auto-repair-answers.com

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